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Average Guy DIY | ||
How to joint compound
Joint compound is applied to fill voids and create a flat, uniform surface. Joint compound shrinks as it dries and needs a reinforcement over larger areas. I like to use mesh tape for the seams. The mesh tape has a sticky back so it can be applied directly to the drywall. So after applying all the mesh tape, I start to mud the joints and screw holes. Joint compound is typically applied in three coats. Apply the first layer, let it dry and then scrape off all the high spots. Apply the second layer, let it dry and then scrape all the high spots. Apply the third layer, let it dry and then sand it down. Sounds simple enough, right? Let me break it down into more detail. 
I use three different sized joint compound knifes and a hawk. I start with a 6" knife for the first coat and progress up to the largest 12" knife for the final coat. Check out the pictures of me applying the joint compound with the 10" knife on the second coat. I start with joint compound on the tip of the knife. I make contact with the drywall by holding the knife perpendicular. I start to tilt the knife towards the drywall as I slide it down the seam pushing the joint compound into the seam. I return the knife back to perpendicular to remove it from contact with the drywall. Before using any joint compound from the hawk, work it a little to give it a nice fluffy look. The joint compound in the picture of the knife and hawk has been fluffed to a nice even consistency. 
Applying a wider coat of joint compound over another coat works great for the seams where the tapered edges of the long side of the drywall meet. It does not work as smoothly when joint compound is applied over the seam created by butting two short sides of the drywall together. The joint compound needs to be tapered to hide the hump created by filling the seam. This tapering is achieved by feathering the joint compound. Check out the picture and notice how the outside edge of the knife is in contact but the inside edge is not touching. By feathering the wet joint compound, the hump becomes invisible. After all the seams are covered with three coats of joint compound and the screw heads are all covered, it is time to sand. I recommend wearing a mask and a hat when doing this. Joint compound dust is not recommended by the FDA for consumption and it sticks to your hair requiring multiple washes before returning back to normal. I like to use the sanding screens when sanding. I have one on a pole that works great. The pole not only extends my reach but also allows me to make longer strokes, therefore getting the job done faster. After sanding, I wipe down all the joint compound with a rag to remove the loose dust. Now it is ready for paint. You've probably noticed that I haven't mentioned how to joint compound inside and outside corners. I will talk about this when I discuss how to joint compound the walls. Also, you may have noticed that the walls don't meet the ceiling. I still have to tear the walls down. This is the only bathroom in this home, so I am trying to limit the down time. Over the weekend, I tackled the ceiling. When I have a bigger chunk of time and all the tile and new fixtures arrive, the walls and floor are getting demo'ed. Plus, this room is going to get 8" crown molding and therefore does not need to have the ceiling to wall junction applied with joint compound. Submit to:
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